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  • Hub You - How To Properly Recondition Your Xerox 13R546 Drum Cartridge In Less Than 60 Minutes

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    2.Remove the guide rail over the drum (2 screws):

    •Also, don’t forget to remove the Charge Scorotron (1 screw on the rear).

    3.Remove the front-end cap (2 screws):

    •Gently extract and remove the bushing from the drum along with the waste toner tube (leave the auger spring in place).

    4.Remove the Connector from the rear of the cartridge (2 screws):

    •Remove the rear plate (3 screws & 1 E-Clip). Remove the metal contact located above the large white gear taking note of how it’ll go back on (it is loose once the rear plate is removed) Slide the rear drum collar off the drum’s shaft and remove the drum. Note that it’s normal for the large white gear, which is on the end of the spring auger to feel loose once

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    The Xerox 13R546 laser drum cartridges are relatively easy to recondition. Similar in many ways to the 5318 style cartridges, which preceded them.

    It is a simple matter of disassembly, a thorough cleaning, inspection of the Drum and Cleaning Blade, and repair of the Connector.

    The Connector is key to resetting the status code (J7) calling for a new Copy Cartridge. Spare parts for these cartridges have been slow coming to the market.

    Fortunately the Drums are capable of running 100,000 copies. There are two types of cartridges between which the only difference is the connector’s "type".

    The XC23-33 uses a 13R546 cartridge which is set up to run 30,000 copies while the XDL23-33 use a 13R555 which is set up to run 50,000 copies.

    The connectors are not interchangeable although the cartridges are identical in all other respects.

    Step-by-Step “How-to-Recondition Your Xerox 13R546” Instructions:

    This drum cartridge is compatible with Xerox copier model numbers:

    •XC23
    •XC23-A
    •XC23-AS
    •XC33-AS
    •XC33-D

    Specifications on the Xerox 13R546 Drum Cartridge

    •Model Number – 13R546
    •Manufacturer – Xerox
    •Type – Brand New
    •Color – Black
    •Description – 1 cartridge per box
    •Page Yield – Approximately 30,000 pages

    These cartridges are relatively easy to recondition. Similar in many ways to the 5318 style cartridges, which preceded them.

    It is a simple matter of disassembly, a thorough cleaning, inspection of the Drum and Cleaning Blade, and repair of the Connector.

    The Connector is key to resetting the status code (J7) calling for a new Copy Cartridge. Spare parts for these cartridges have been slow coming to the market.

    Fortunately the Drums are capable of running 100,000 copies. There are two types of cartridges between which the only difference is the connector’s "type".

    The XC23-33 uses a 13R546 cartridge which is set up to run 30,000 copies while the XDL23-33 use a 13R555 which is set up to run 50,000 copies.

    The connectors are not interchangeable although the cartridges are identical in all other respects.

    SECTION 1

    Tools:

    •Flat-Head Screwdriver (small)
    •Phillips-Head Screwdriver
    •Technician Vacuum Cleaner with a toner rated filter

    Supplies:

    •Starter Powder (dusting pouch)
    •Yellow Dust Cloths
    •Swab with Isopropyl Alcohol (or a Corona Cleaning Pen)
    •White Polishing Sponge (optional)
    •Drum-Coat Polish (optional)

    Replacement components which you may need to do.

    •Repaired Connector (necessary)
    •Cleaning Blade

    SECTION 2

    PROCEDURE

    1.First check the drum for flaws (turns counter-clockwise if you’re looking at the rear end):

    •Look for scuffmarks, or scratches. Also see if the Cleaning Blade is leaving any streaks on the drum. Fingerprints and some minor scuff may come off when you polish the drum later.

    2.Remove the guide rail over the drum (2 screws):

    •Also, don’t forget to remove the Charge Scorotron (1 screw on the rear).

    3.Remove the front-end cap (2 screws):

    •Gently extract and remove the bushing from the drum along with the waste toner tube (leave the auger spring in place).

    4.Remove the Connector from the rear of the cartridge (2 screws):

    •Remove the rear plate (3 screws & 1 E-Clip). Remove the metal contact located above the large white gear taking note of how it’ll go back on (it is loose once the rear plate is removed) Slide the rear drum collar off the drum’s shaft and remove the drum. Note that it’s normal for the large white gear, which is on the end of the spring auger to feel loose once t

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    50,000 copies.

    The connectors are not interchangeable although the cartridges are identical in all other respects.

    Step-by-Step “How-to-Recondition Your Xerox 13R546” Instructions:

    This drum cartridge is compatible with Xerox copier model numbers:

    •XC23
    •XC23-A
    •XC23-AS
    •XC33-AS
    •XC33-D

    Specifications on the Xerox 13R546 Drum Cartridge

    •Model Number – 13R546
    •Manufacturer – Xerox
    •Type – Brand New
    •Color – Black
    •Description – 1 cartridge per box
    •Page Yield – Approximately 30,000 pages

    These cartridges are relatively easy to recondition. Similar in many ways to the 5318 style cartridges, which preceded them.

    It is a simple matter of disassembly, a thorough cleaning, inspection of the Drum and Cleaning Blade, and repair of the Connector.

    The Connector is key to resetting the status code (J7) calling for a new Copy Cartridge. Spare parts for these cartridges have been slow coming to the market.

    Fortunately the Drums are capable of running 100,000 copies. There are two types of cartridges between which the only difference is the connector’s "type".

    The XC23-33 uses a 13R546 cartridge which is set up to run 30,000 copies while the XDL23-33 use a 13R555 which is set up to run 50,000 copies.

    The connectors are not interchangeable although the cartridges are identical in all other respects.

    SECTION 1

    Tools:

    •Flat-Head Screwdriver (small)
    •Phillips-Head Screwdriver
    •Technician Vacuum Cleaner with a toner rated filter

    Supplies:

    •Starter Powder (dusting pouch)
    •Yellow Dust Cloths
    •Swab with Isopropyl Alcohol (or a Corona Cleaning Pen)
    •White Polishing Sponge (optional)
    •Drum-Coat Polish (optional)

    Replacement components which you may need to do.

    •Repaired Connector (necessary)
    •Cleaning Blade

    SECTION 2

    PROCEDURE

    1.First check the drum for flaws (turns counter-clockwise if you’re looking at the rear end):

    •Look for scuffmarks, or scratches. Also see if the Cleaning Blade is leaving any streaks on the drum. Fingerprints and some minor scuff may come off when you polish the drum later.

    2.Remove the guide rail over the drum (2 screws):

    •Also, don’t forget to remove the Charge Scorotron (1 screw on the rear).

    3.Remove the front-end cap (2 screws):

    •Gently extract and remove the bushing from the drum along with the waste toner tube (leave the auger spring in place).

    4.Remove the Connector from the rear of the cartridge (2 screws):

    •Remove the rear plate (3 screws & 1 E-Clip). Remove the metal contact located above the large white gear taking note of how it’ll go back on (it is loose once the rear plate is removed) Slide the rear drum collar off the drum’s shaft and remove the drum. Note that it’s normal for the large white gear, which is on the end of the spring auger to feel loose once

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    , a thorough cleaning, inspection of the Drum and Cleaning Blade, and repair of the Connector.

    The Connector is key to resetting the status code (J7) calling for a new Copy Cartridge. Spare parts for these cartridges have been slow coming to the market.

    Fortunately the Drums are capable of running 100,000 copies. There are two types of cartridges between which the only difference is the connector’s "type".

    The XC23-33 uses a 13R546 cartridge which is set up to run 30,000 copies while the XDL23-33 use a 13R555 which is set up to run 50,000 copies.

    The connectors are not interchangeable although the cartridges are identical in all other respects.

    SECTION 1

    Tools:

    •Flat-Head Screwdriver (small)
    •Phillips-Head Screwdriver
    •Technician Vacuum Cleaner with a toner rated filter

    Supplies:

    •Starter Powder (dusting pouch)
    •Yellow Dust Cloths
    •Swab with Isopropyl Alcohol (or a Corona Cleaning Pen)
    •White Polishing Sponge (optional)
    •Drum-Coat Polish (optional)

    Replacement components which you may need to do.

    •Repaired Connector (necessary)
    •Cleaning Blade

    SECTION 2

    PROCEDURE

    1.First check the drum for flaws (turns counter-clockwise if you’re looking at the rear end):

    •Look for scuffmarks, or scratches. Also see if the Cleaning Blade is leaving any streaks on the drum. Fingerprints and some minor scuff may come off when you polish the drum later.

    2.Remove the guide rail over the drum (2 screws):

    •Also, don’t forget to remove the Charge Scorotron (1 screw on the rear).

    3.Remove the front-end cap (2 screws):

    •Gently extract and remove the bushing from the drum along with the waste toner tube (leave the auger spring in place).

    4.Remove the Connector from the rear of the cartridge (2 screws):

    •Remove the rear plate (3 screws & 1 E-Clip). Remove the metal contact located above the large white gear taking note of how it’ll go back on (it is loose once the rear plate is removed) Slide the rear drum collar off the drum’s shaft and remove the drum. Note that it’s normal for the large white gear, which is on the end of the spring auger to feel loose once

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    r> •Phillips-Head Screwdriver
    •Technician Vacuum Cleaner with a toner rated filter

    Supplies:

    •Starter Powder (dusting pouch)
    •Yellow Dust Cloths
    •Swab with Isopropyl Alcohol (or a Corona Cleaning Pen)
    •White Polishing Sponge (optional)
    •Drum-Coat Polish (optional)

    Replacement components which you may need to do.

    •Repaired Connector (necessary)
    •Cleaning Blade

    SECTION 2

    PROCEDURE

    1.First check the drum for flaws (turns counter-clockwise if you’re looking at the rear end):

    •Look for scuffmarks, or scratches. Also see if the Cleaning Blade is leaving any streaks on the drum. Fingerprints and some minor scuff may come off when you polish the drum later.

    2.Remove the guide rail over the drum (2 screws):

    •Also, don’t forget to remove the Charge Scorotron (1 screw on the rear).

    3.Remove the front-end cap (2 screws):

    •Gently extract and remove the bushing from the drum along with the waste toner tube (leave the auger spring in place).

    4.Remove the Connector from the rear of the cartridge (2 screws):

    •Remove the rear plate (3 screws & 1 E-Clip). Remove the metal contact located above the large white gear taking note of how it’ll go back on (it is loose once the rear plate is removed) Slide the rear drum collar off the drum’s shaft and remove the drum. Note that it’s normal for the large white gear, which is on the end of the spring auger to feel loose once

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    2.Remove the guide rail over the drum (2 screws):

    •Also, don’t forget to remove the Charge Scorotron (1 screw on the rear).

    3.Remove the front-end cap (2 screws):

    •Gently extract and remove the bushing from the drum along with the waste toner tube (leave the auger spring in place).

    4.Remove the Connector from the rear of the cartridge (2 screws):

    •Remove the rear plate (3 screws & 1 E-Clip). Remove the metal contact located above the large white gear taking note of how it’ll go back on (it is loose once the rear plate is removed) Slide the rear drum collar off the drum’s shaft and remove the drum. Note that it’s normal for the large white gear, which is on the end of the spring auger to feel loose once the rear plate is off.

    5.Empty the reclaim toner, which is inside the drum:

    •Inspect the drum & put it in a safe place away from direct light.

    6.Remove the metal top cover:

    •Also, the plastic cover beneath it (2 screws). The Cleaning Blade can then be lifted out. Clean everything well. Pay special attention to the toner brush located behind the Cleaning Blade.

    •Clean the corona wire with isopropyl alcohol on a swab or a Corona Cleaning Pen. Take care not to damage the thin Mylar Recovery Blade & the Scorotron Grid or its contacts.

    •Inspect the blade for any imperfections. Replace the blade if necessary (if you do, use plenty of starting powder).

    •If there are any minor scuffs or fingerprints on the drum, you may want to polish it with Drum Coat (use sparingly) using a clean white sponge... be sure to remove any excess polish haze after letting the drum dry for a minute or two.

    •Any polish left on the drum will increase the # of copies you need to run to "break in" the drum again (you’ll get light copies for between 20 & 50 copies after a good polishing).

    7.Reassemble the cartridge:

    •Return the drum carefully to its cradle; slide the rear collar back into place. When re-installing the rear plate, note that there is one Machine screw, which goes on the right above the white gear; the other two screws are plastic tapping screws.

    Once it’s all together, turn the drum (counter clockwise when looking at the rear of the cartridge) to see that all is well.

    8.Send the connector in for repair:

    •Once you get the repaired connector... the cartridge will run another full cycle.

    Here are some codes you may come across and will need to know the codes.

    Status Codes: Press ‘0’ to see the sub code

    A Codes:
    A Codes Document Feed Problems

    C Codes:
    C Codes Paper Feed or Pre-registration Jam Problems

    E Codes:
    E Codes Post-registration / Exit Jams & Duplex Problems

    F Codes:
    F Codes Sorter Jam or Interlock Problems

    H Codes:
    H Codes HCF (High Capacity Feeder) or ADF Problems

    J Codes:
    J1 Code Toner Empty
    J3 Code Copy Cartridge not installed (or not seated properly)
    J7 Code Copy Ctg. count expired (replace the connector)
    J8 Codes Improper Copy Cartridge (or not seated properly)

    L Codes:
    L6 Code Key Counter not installed
    L8 Code Platen Temperature too high
    L9 Code Communication error with Inter-Image Lamp PWB

    U Codes:
    U1-1 Code Xerographic Motor Problem
    U2 Codes Scanner Drive Problems
    U3-1 Code Lens Drive Problem
    U4-1 Code Fuser Thermistor Open
    U4-2 Code Fuser took too long to warm up
    U4-3 Code Fuser stays on after reaching operating temperature
    U4-4 Code Fuser stays on too long after copy cycle
    U4-6 Code Fuser Over-temperature
    U5 Codes Sorter Bin Drive Problem
    U6 Codes Memory Problems / Main Board Problems
    U

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